it's true: in the inland areas of Sri Lanka, the main source of protein for many families are tiny dried fish, crushed and sprinkled into curries and every dish. Even our enormous Belgian Shepherd dog survives mainly on rice, dahl and dried fish - to his benefit: he was the runt of the litter, but now is larger than any of his posh meat-eating Colombo siblings! They are known as Maldive Fish in Sri Lanka, but that is generally pronounced as Mouldy Fish, which seems most appropriate!
The first time I ever saw anchovies that were not in a tin was on the Asia side of Istanbul, where a number of ladies were deep-frying them in what appeared to be a cross between a wok and a hubcap. They were sublime. And then I began my travels to Asia. When I hit Indonesia, I ate Gado-Gado whenever I could. Another home run of a column, Julia. Keep these glorious essays coming.
Wonderful piece. You took me back to numerous Southeast Asian markets full of myriad varieties of dried fish. It is interesting that in Portugal, whose national dish is salt cod (bacalhau),or perhaps sardines, depending on whom you ask, which has such a very fish-heavy cuisine, and specializes in canned fish, even having whole shops devoted to it, seems not to share the love of anchovies. You have to hunt them down in most groceries, if they have them at all. Fortunately, they can be found in jars here and there. Alas, the common interpretations of Worcestershire sauce, charmingly called “molho inglés,” or “English sauce,” do not contain anchovies. I never thought to look before reading your piece. Now I’ll have to look for a source for Lee & Perrins!
Loved this column. I love anchovies but have always bought tins. Before I throw out the ones I don't use at the moment - I usually get anchovy juice all over the refrigerator and dribble some on the floor on the way. Jars for me from now on!
How could anyone not like anchovies?! Your wonderful post today made me want to jump on the first flight to South East Asia..if only. I checked Patum Peperium online and sadly now in plastic pots.
This is such a pleasure to read, I love the form you've settled on for these articles, and how you finish with a recipe. My partner is anti-anchovies and maybe I have been using too many in the dishes I made him with them in, which is why he noticed. I will try again but dialing back the amount I include. Congrats on being featured on the front page, I can see why. This is a fantastic newsletter. <3
it's true: in the inland areas of Sri Lanka, the main source of protein for many families are tiny dried fish, crushed and sprinkled into curries and every dish. Even our enormous Belgian Shepherd dog survives mainly on rice, dahl and dried fish - to his benefit: he was the runt of the litter, but now is larger than any of his posh meat-eating Colombo siblings! They are known as Maldive Fish in Sri Lanka, but that is generally pronounced as Mouldy Fish, which seems most appropriate!
The first time I ever saw anchovies that were not in a tin was on the Asia side of Istanbul, where a number of ladies were deep-frying them in what appeared to be a cross between a wok and a hubcap. They were sublime. And then I began my travels to Asia. When I hit Indonesia, I ate Gado-Gado whenever I could. Another home run of a column, Julia. Keep these glorious essays coming.
Wonderful piece. You took me back to numerous Southeast Asian markets full of myriad varieties of dried fish. It is interesting that in Portugal, whose national dish is salt cod (bacalhau),or perhaps sardines, depending on whom you ask, which has such a very fish-heavy cuisine, and specializes in canned fish, even having whole shops devoted to it, seems not to share the love of anchovies. You have to hunt them down in most groceries, if they have them at all. Fortunately, they can be found in jars here and there. Alas, the common interpretations of Worcestershire sauce, charmingly called “molho inglés,” or “English sauce,” do not contain anchovies. I never thought to look before reading your piece. Now I’ll have to look for a source for Lee & Perrins!
Loved this column. I love anchovies but have always bought tins. Before I throw out the ones I don't use at the moment - I usually get anchovy juice all over the refrigerator and dribble some on the floor on the way. Jars for me from now on!
How could anyone not like anchovies?! Your wonderful post today made me want to jump on the first flight to South East Asia..if only. I checked Patum Peperium online and sadly now in plastic pots.
This is such a pleasure to read, I love the form you've settled on for these articles, and how you finish with a recipe. My partner is anti-anchovies and maybe I have been using too many in the dishes I made him with them in, which is why he noticed. I will try again but dialing back the amount I include. Congrats on being featured on the front page, I can see why. This is a fantastic newsletter. <3