Hoary old chestnut?

A sweet Christmas treat

Gearing up for a modest Thanksgiving in London last month, I paid a visit to the butcher. “Do you have a small turkey?” There was a studied pause while he considered this, meat cleaver dangerously close to his ear. “First off, there’s no such bird as a small turkey. Second, this is November.” In the UK, turkeys are only in the shops for Christmas. 

We find eating seasonally a bit of a struggle. Yet there are certain foods we will only condone on set occasions. 

One of my favourite treats is a marron glacé. Or two. Guzzled at any time from breakfast on. But I can only access them at Christmas. Fresh chestnuts emerge in the stores at the beginning of November. Marrons glacés, imported from Southern France or northern Italy, aren’t set out until December. I would eat them in July.

They’re a historic confection, created after the crusaders returned to Europe loaded with sugar. Candied chestnuts were recorded around Turin in the 15th century. But the marron glacé, which takes the process one step further with a crisp glaze, appeared in France a century later. 

Naturally the French and Italians still dispute who invented it first. Perhaps both: the first known recipe was written by an Italian cook in the 16th century in the employ of the French Duke of Savoy. In 1906, 63 varieties of chestnut were registered. Nowadays, there are just a few, and only three main growing areas.

The French for the common chestnut is châtaigne, a derivation of the old French ‘chastain’. (Actor Jessica Chastain has chestnut hair. Isn’t that neat?) It generally contains two and sometimes a flattened third nut. 

Marrons are a superior breed distinct for containing one nut only, ideal for marrons glacés. Their prime source is the Dordogne and the Limousin in south west France where 30% of the country’s crop is grown. 

You can buy marrons glacés in upmarket stores for Christmas. But why not make your own. For eating in July.

500g/1lb fresh chestnuts

For the syrup: 300g/10 ounces sugar and 300ml/10 fluid ounces water

Score the chestnuts, cover in cold water and cook on a low boil for 8-10 minutes till tender. Drain and peel while warm.

Bring the sugar and water to the boil in a heavy-based pan then simmer for 10 minutes to make a syrup. Add chestnuts and simmer for 7-8 minutes. Remove from heat and leave them overnight in the syrup.

Bring the chestnuts back to the boil in the syrup and bubble for 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let chestnuts cool overnight in the syrup. Repeat the process 3 or more times over the next few days until all the syrup is absorbed.

Preheat the oven to 70°C/160F. Spread the candied chestnuts across a wire rack over a tray covered in foil and place in the oven. Prop its door open with a wooden spoon handle and leave for 2 hours or until crusty. Remove, cool, and wrap each chestnut in greaseproof paper.